Mountain and Sea Canteen - Chapter 7
Before the guests arrived, Ying Linglong had already removed the fish bones, cut the fish into pieces, and was halfway through scraping the fish paste.
Nowadays, even the fish balls made in restaurants are usually processed by machines, which saves time and effort, and the resulting fish paste is finer than that scraped by hand.
However, machines are not perfect. The fish meat processed by machines damages the fibers and texture, resulting in a slightly inferior taste. Ordinary people might not notice this subtle difference, but experienced diners can taste the distinction.
Ying Linglong chose mackerel as the material for making fish balls. Mackerel has more meat and fewer bones, and its white flesh is tender and soft, making it one of the most suitable sea fish for fish balls.
The essence of seafood lies in its freshness. The fresh mackerel that Di Jiang had just delivered was swiftly gutted by Ying Linglong. She skillfully separated the head and deftly split the fish in half along the bone, using a spoon to scrape the fish paste along the grain of the meat.
One advantage of hand-made fish balls is that there will never be any fish bone fragments in the paste. This is called “no fish bones to be found, but sweetness everywhere.” If large chunks of fish meat are directly thrown into a machine to be crushed, even the small bones are broken. Although it won’t hurt the guests, it’s not a pleasant experience to eat.
After scraping the fish paste, the mackerel shrank instantly, leaving only half of the meat usable. The paste then needs to be pounded into a fine fish paste. The timing and intensity of this pounding are the key to the flavor of the fish balls. The fish needs to release its collagen to make the fish balls elastic. If the pounding is insufficient, the fish balls will be rough and loose; if overdone, the fish meat will lose its tender and smooth texture.
Ying Linglong handled the fish paste with ease and even took the time to prepare a few home-style dishes ordered by Huang Baihao and his group. A good chef can manage several stoves simultaneously, which is not uncommon.
Squeezing the fish paste out from the tiger’s mouth and placing it into a pot of cold water, the perfect fish balls, plump and round, were born once they floated to the surface.
One of Huang Baihao’s curious companions got up to take a look. Seeing Ying Linglong scraping the fish paste, pounding the fish paste, and squeezing the fish balls, her movements had a unique rhythm, more like creating an artwork than cooking.
He returned to his seat and whispered to his companions, “It really is handmade fish balls from start to finish. I went to a Michelin restaurant before, and they also claimed their fish balls were hand-pounded. Later, I found out that those were actually machine-processed, saying that ordinary customers like us couldn’t tell the difference. They only hand-pound them when judges and food critics come.”
Another companion smiled and said, “Nowadays, there are no real food critics, just people who are paid to hype things up.”
The speaker was Qi Jun, whose family owned a furniture factory and had a bit of money. The family didn’t have many other hobbies-they just loved good food. In earlier years, they hadn’t been lured by the gimmicks of high-end restaurants to try gold-leaf steaks or snowflake foie gras, which, in their opinion, were just so-so.
The family didn’t look down on small eateries either. Even if it was a little-known restaurant, they’d still go if someone recommended it.
However, as the internet became more prevalent, many hidden gems that used to be overshadowed by their obscure locations were now being overshadowed by marketing tactics. Online hype would make these places sound extraordinary, but after waiting in line for hours, the actual experience often fell far short of expectations.
Huang Baihao consulted with the group, “This is a close friend of my family. If anything doesn’t suit your taste later, please don’t say it out loud and embarrass her.”
Given that Huang Baihao was treating them, no one would openly undermine him.
Still, it was true that no one had high expectations for this meal. The restaurant was sparsely populated, and the chef looked impossibly young. While both the chef and the waitstaff were strikingly good-looking, that only added to the sense of unreliability.
In the eyes of diners, a delicate, graceful female chef didn’t inspire the same sense of security as a burly, pot-bellied, neckless uncle.
If it weren’t for the lack of people taking photos with cameras and the sparse number of customers, Qi Jun would have pegged this place as a trendy网红 restaurant using beauty as a gimmick.
Another companion shrugged, “How bad can barbecue be?” Especially since Golden Crow’s barbecue was almost ready, filling the air with an enticing smoky aroma.
Their seats weren’t far from Golden Crow’s grill. The restaurant’s air conditioning was strong, so they didn’t feel the heat, but they could watch as the meat slowly developed a tempting charred edge. The fat in the meat sizzled and burst, gradually gathering into small droplets that dripped onto the coals, producing a satisfying sizzle.
Someone else at the table was silently worried. Sitting on the inner side of the table was Ding Ling, who didn’t care for barbecue. Fortunately, there were home-style dishes to order, though he had just been teased by his friends for ordering scrambled eggs with tomatoes in a restaurant.
As the barbecue was served, Ding Ling glanced in Ying Linglong’s direction and silently prayed. Even the worst cook couldn’t mess up scrambled eggs with tomatoes, right?
When the barbecue arrived at the table, Qi Jun immediately reached for the plump fish balls. Ying Linglong’s earlier display had been a feast for the eyes, but if the taste didn’t match, it would all be a joke.
As soon as the Fish Balls entered his mouth, Qi Jun was overwhelmed by their savory, springy texture. Despite being grilled, they weren’t dry at all. This was due to the perfect balance of force when shaping them-just enough to avoid creating hollow spaces that would ruin the texture, yet leaving the right amount of airiness to keep them plump and juicy.
In hindsight, grilling these Fish Balls seemed almost wasteful. They would have been even better in a clear broth, allowing their natural seafood flavor to shine.
As Qi Jun slowly savored the last bite, he looked down and realized why no one had been talking. Everyone’s mouths were stuffed, and they were already holding two skewers each. Out of the twenty Fish Balls ordered, only one was left for him!
“Ding Ling,” he said indignantly, “I thought you didn’t eat barbecue!” Yet you’re the one who grabbed the most!
Ding Ling mumbled with his mouth full, “My food hasn’t arrived yet, so I’m just filling up a bit. Besides, Fish Balls don’t count as barbecue, do they?”
Though the Fish Balls were gone, the remaining Grilled Skewers were just as enticing. The lamb skewers were made from the hind leg, the best cut for grilling, with a perfect balance of lean and fatty meat-tender, not greasy, and free of any gamey taste.
Huang Baihao was eating with such gusto, his lips glistening with oil, that he completely forgot about asking his friends to save face for him. If he had known the grill master, who looked about his age, was this skilled, he wouldn’t have bothered giving them a heads-up earlier!
Chongming brought over a bowl of rice, Braised Beef Brisket, and scrambled eggs with tomatoes, placing them in front of Ding Ling.
These were the dishes Ding Ling had ordered, and Chongming remembered them clearly.
Ding Ling felt a little awkward. He hadn’t been interested in the barbecue, finding it too greasy, but now he was already half-full.
He pushed the dishes toward the center of the table, saying, “You guys should try some too…” as he picked up a piece of Braised Beef Brisket.
The brisket had a tempting color, having been both stir-fried and slow-cooked for hours. As Ding Ling took a bite, the rich broth seeped into every fiber of the meat, bursting with flavor in his mouth. The tenderness and juiciness made him narrow his eyes in delight.
But then, Ding Ling’s hand quickly changed direction, pulling the plate back in front of him. “I tried it for you, but I didn’t really taste it. Let me have another bite.”
Meanwhile, several pairs of chopsticks immediately reached for the Braised Beef Brisket, and Qi Jun even scooped up half of the rice from Ding Ling’s bowl.
Qi Jun managed to grab a few pieces of brisket and then took the plate, now mostly just sauce, pouring it over the freshly steamed, fluffy rice. The thick sauce quickly coated the grains, soaking into them. With a quick stir, every grain of rice was perfectly combined with the rich, savory broth.
“Now that’s how you eat!” Huang Baihao exclaimed, slapping his thigh in approval.
By the end, the plate of Braised Beef Brisket was spotless, not a drop of sauce left. Only then did everyone remember the plate of scrambled eggs with tomatoes sitting beside it. What had seemed like a plain, ordinary dish now looked entirely different in the eyes of these ravenous diners.
The bright red tomatoes and golden yellow eggs were perfectly intertwined on the plate. The tomatoes had been cooked until soft and tender, their rich, tangy juices melting in the mouth. The sweet and sour sauce clung to the evenly sized chunks of eggs, making it another perfect companion for rice.
The group clamored for another bowl of rice.
The lively chatter and aroma of grilled meat from the neighboring table filled the air. The elderly couple at another table occasionally glanced over with smiles, enjoying the sight of these vibrant young faces.
Wu Donghua and He Lan were both retired professors from Jiangyu University. Since their working days, they had eaten three meals a day at the school canteen. Neither of them was particularly skilled in the kitchen, so even after retiring, they often wandered back to campus to solve their daily meal needs. The most frustrating time was during winter and summer breaks when most of the canteen closed, leaving only a few windows open-none of which suited their tastes.
Today, after a rain shower, the stifling heat in the air had eased slightly. He Lan suggested they take a walk and find a restaurant for dinner.
Though her cooking skills were mediocre, He Lan had a refined palate. Eating her own or her husband’s cooking only doubled her misery.
Originally, they had planned to walk to the food street across from Jiangyu University, but Wu Donghua stopped her. He pointed out that during the summer break, most of the shops on the food street, which primarily catered to students, were closed. With fewer customers, the ingredients were likely to be less fresh, and in the summer heat, there was a risk of food poisoning.
This highlighted an interesting dynamic between the two. He Lan could discern the subtlest flavors in food the moment it touched her tongue. Wu Donghua, on the other hand, was far less discerning. He couldn’t even detect slightly spoiled food masked by heavy seasoning. Unfortunately, his stomach was sensitive, and even the slightest bit of stale food would leave him vomiting and running to the hospital in severe cases.
Whenever they went out to eat, they always chose a clean and tidy-looking restaurant. Only after He Lan had tasted the food would Wu Donghua dare to eat.
Today, they wandered into Mountain and Sea Canteen, drawn by its spotless windows and the fact that even the grill station, notorious for being greasy, was immaculate. It wasn’t until they were inside that they realized it was the restaurant’s opening day-no wonder it looked so pristine.
The two exchanged a wry smile and quietly discussed whether they should look for another place. However, the waiter who approached them had a bright, clear voice and a sunny smile. His eyes held a kind of pure, untainted clarity. Having taught many students over the years, they had always been fond of such simple, earnest young people. Seeing him so eager to serve, they couldn’t bear to disappoint him.
Just then, they overheard the group at the next table ordering Handmade Fish Balls, so the couple decided to try the Baby Bok Choy Vermicelli Fish Ball Soup. It seemed like a light, suitable choice for dinner.
When they saw Ying Linglong handcrafting the fish balls, the two professors felt a bit reassured. Perhaps this new restaurant might just surprise them.
They also noticed that the fish ball soup was made by first sautéing the leftover fish bones and heads of mackerel, then simmering them into a rich, milky broth. After the bones were removed, the fish balls, vermicelli, and a handful of tender baby bok choy were added to complete the dish.
The aroma of the soup wafted through the air, subtle yet distinct, not entirely overpowered by the bold scent of the barbecue from the neighboring table. It drifted faintly into the nostrils of the two professors.
Wu Donghua’s throat moved slightly. Only now, as his aging stomach finally registered hunger, did he realize how much he was looking forward to the meal.
The cheerful waiter, Chongming, steadily carried the tray over and placed two bowls of fish ball soup in front of the couple.
“Enjoy your meal,” he said with a bright smile. Another satisfied customer-what a joy.
He Lan took the first sip of the soup. The broth was rich and flavorful, with a hint of white pepper added just before serving. It enhanced the taste without overwhelming those who preferred lighter flavors. As the warm soup traveled down her throat and into her stomach, she felt a deep sense of comfort.
Seeing his wife slowly bite into a springy fish ball, revealing its firm, tender interior, Wu Donghua grew impatient. “Well? Can I eat it now?” he pressed.
He Lan chuckled, the lines at the corners of her eyes crinkling. “You’re so stubborn and dense, and you don’t even like hearing it! Do you really need me to taste it for you to check if the ingredients are fresh? It was made right in front of you!”
Wu Donghua quickly picked up his chopsticks. The baby bok choy was tender and soft, having absorbed the rich fish broth, just like the vermicelli. Every bite was infused with the soup’s savory essence.
The couple had always enjoyed fish, but as their eyesight declined, they often missed the tiny bones, leaving them with a few unpleasant experiences. Gradually, they had to cut back on eating fish.
This fish ball soup, however, was a delightful exception. It was full of fish flavor without the hassle of picking out bones. The rich aroma of the fish broth was irresistible, and the convenience of not dealing with bones made it even more appealing.
The two focused intently on their meal, not putting down their bowls until they had finished every last drop of soup.
Looking at the spotless bowls, Wu Donghua laughed heartily. “It’s been a while since I’ve cleaned my plate like this.”
As they aged, eating too much often left them feeling uncomfortably full. Sometimes, when their appetites were poor, they couldn’t finish their meals, and it pained them to waste food.
Today’s dining experience, however, was nothing but pleasant.
Who would have thought there’d be a restaurant like this, choosing to open in such a quiet spot instead of the bustling food street? The chef, though young, had truly remarkable skills.
Wu Donghua thought back to the restaurant’s name he had seen before entering. A sense of admiration washed over him. Food, after all, is the essence of the mountains and the sea. Whether it’s rustic wild herbs or luxurious delicacies, what dish isn’t rooted in the treasures of land and sea?
As for the “canteen” part of the name-once a customer comes here once, they’ll surely return every day. Isn’t that what a canteen is?
How amusing.